It’s all in the details

One of the most important things about traveling, for me, is to remind myself to slow down, be more mindful of where I am, why I’m traveling, what I hope to get out of traveling. Sometimes I get caught up trying to cram in seeing as many sites as possible, since I know I only have a limited amount of time. But I think it’s so important to really stop and take a moment to observe where you are, to appreciate the details, to take a closer look. Aran is an extraordinarily complex place, both in landscape and in culture, and in order to fully appreciate it, it’s good if you can take your time. Whether this means staying for longer than a day, or if that’s not possible, to pause along your walk or bike ride to notice more about your surroundings, you’ll thank yourself.

Things I might have missed:

The yellow, finger-like seaweed on the beach in Kilronan…

Seaweed on Inishmore, Aran Islands

Seaweed on Inishmore, Aran Islands

 

The Lego-block-like structure at the pier on Inishmaan….

Pier on Inishmaan, Aran Islands

Pier on Inishmaan, Aran Islands

 

The rough rust and glimpses of sunlight inside the Plassey wreck on Inisheer…

Inside the Plassey, Inisheer, Aran Islands

Inside the Plassey, Inisheer, Aran Islands

 

All the moist and buttery nooks and crannies in the home-baked brown bread that Alice made at the Dormer House…

Brown Bread, Inishmore, Aran Islands

Brown Bread, Inishmore, Aran Islands

 

A bright green shag carpet of moss, growing on the cliffs of Inishmaan,

Life on the cliffs, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

Life on the cliffs, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

 

A clump of shells growing on yet another shell…

Shells on shells, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

Shells on shells, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

And so much more.

Finding all these details filled me with an even greater sense of appreciation for all the little things that go into creating this:

View of Inishmore from Dun Aengus, Aran Islands

View of Inishmore from Dun Aengus, Aran Islands

 -Emily Herzlin – emilyherzlin.com

“Stitches in time” exhibition on Inis oírr (Inisheer) Aran Islands.

“Stitches in time” exhibition continues  at Áras Éanna on Inis Oírr.

I got a chance on Saturday last to visit this wonderful exhibition and enjoy a cup of coffee in the shop downstairs. Do visit Inis Oírr and experience this great exhibition.

Many thanks to Bill O’Brien of O’Brien line ferries in Doolin for getting me to Inisheer on Saturday. The lovely “Tranquility” ferry left Doolin at the advertised time of 10am for the short trip to the Island.

 

Taispeántas é “Seanstíl Éadach Inis Oírr” faoi na sean-chulaithe éadach a bhíodh á chaitheamh ag muintir Inis Oírr. Beidh sé le feiceál in Áras Éanna, ionad ealaíne Inis Oírr, go dtí deireadh mí Lúnasa.

“Stitches in Time” is an exhibition about the old traditional clothes that were worn by the people of Inis Oírr until recent times. It will be on display in Áras Éanna, Inis Oírr’s arts centre, until the end of August.

Here are some photos that I took but better photos are available on Áras Éanna’s own facebook page HERE

 

Doolin Pier Ferry Offices

Ferry offices at Doolin Pier

The Art of Aran Writing

I loved reading all of the poetry submissions for the Joe Wattie’s limerick competition. The variety of voices and images was truly a pleasure to read. Everyone who submitted a poem should be proud of their work, even if they didn’t win the competition, because in writing about Aran you have contributed to the literary history of the Aran Islands! (Which is already quite rich, indeed!)

Aran has inspired many writers and artists over the years. Notable Irish writers Liam O’Flaherty and Mairtin O’Direain grew up on Inishmore, and in Gort na gCapall there is a lovely memorial for Liam O’Flaherty. I only wish I knew Irish so I could read their work untranslated. (I’m thinking of taking beginner Irish at the New York Irish Arts Center this fall, in fact.)

Liam O'Flaherty Memorial, Inishmore, Aran Islands

Liam O'Flaherty Memorial, Inishmore, Aran Islands

And, of course, the object of my obsession, the writer that drew me to Aran, J.M. Synge, was also greatly inspired by the Aran Islands. Mairtin O’Direain even wrote a poem about Synge. I was able to find an English translation online – I hope it is accurate.

HOMAGE TO JOHN MILLINGTON SYNGE

The thing that brought you among my people
from rich distance to rough rock
was something in the vital clay,
a trace escaping of woe and loss.

It was not from stone you took your stories,
but the wonders in stories by the fire;
not care for the stony cell or flag
– there are no groans out of dead ground.

Deirdre met you there on the road;
Naoise’s currach turned Ceann Gainnimh.
Deirdre and Naoise took their way
– and Pegeen was nagging at Shauneen.

Always in your fist, that book …
You cast your words from it in a spell:
Deirdre, Naoise, Pegeen took shape
and gave a hero-leap from its pages.

My people’s way is failing fast,
the wave no longer a guarding wall.
But till Cuan Wood comes to Inis Mean
the words you gathered here will be
alive still in a foreign tongue.

I love this poem. I think it really captures Synge’s fascination with the islands, and the way Aran seeped into his work.

Aran still inspires writing, and art in all its forms. One of my favorite acquisitions from my trip this summer is the book Island Writings. (Also available on Amazon, here). I bought it from the Internet Cafe in Kilronan.

Island Writings
Island Writings

The book is a collection of poetry and short stories written by women from 14 different islands off the coast of Ireland. The Aran Islands feature prominently, with stories by Stephanie Brennan, Mary Burke, Rachel Burke, Katherine Conneely, Olwen Gill, Thomond Gill, Maire Ui Iarnain, Noilin Ni Iarnain, and Nonie O’Neill. Some of the writing is in Irish, but most of it is in English. Fiction, nonfiction, and poetry are all represented.

If you’re traveling to Aran, I recommend taking more than just a digital camera with you. Bring a small notebook and leave some time – whether it’s fifteen minutes or three hours – to sit somewhere and write. Record the colors and sounds around you, recall a conversation you had in a pub, or simply listen to whatever feeling comes out of you, and write from that. In doing so, you’ll become part of a tradition of those who were moved by the islands to put pen to paper.

Synge used to sit and write here:

Synge's Chair, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

Synge's Chair, Inishmaan, Aran Islands

Where would you sit and write on Aran?

 

-Emily Herzlin,

LettersToAran.Blogspot.com@EmilyHerzlin (twitter).