Early November

Embedded in a pale blue sky the few clouds are shaped like feathers of a seabird. Pointed southwards they are strongly driven by the wind coming from the north and blowing over Inis Meáin. It is cold this early morning but it is dry and that is the main thing. A fair day may lie ahead of us.


And so it turns out. It is only some hours later that Trácht Each, the stony beach at the northern part of the west, is being milked by the sun. What a pleasure to follow her shadow moving in a fast pace over the surface. It is in no time that many subtle shades of grey pass my vision. Although it is lovely to observe this magnificent view now from the highest terrace I cannot wait to get ready and set off to be in it.

nicely-roundedNicely rounded

I walk the winding road which guides me over two terraces lower down where at the cross road I take the left wing. It is almost at the far end of the road, just before there where the ceremonious sounding entrance stones at both sides of the road, prepare you a welcome. However, I take the turn to the limestone slabs.

in-metamorphoseIn metamorphose

Massive of lime stone has paved the sea here. At some places there are many small and sharply edged broken pieces while at other spots I come across big and nicely rounded stones also.


In the grykes, the deep cracks in the slabs, I see lovely and exotic ferns which are probably only able to develop and survive in these places because of the sheltered place they are growing in.
Unexpectedly I am confronted with a puffin hole when I cross a small heap of big stones. As it is low tide I can have a close look at it. Just as the stones at this beach and deep down too, this hole is round shaped as well. The many different layers in colour, design and thickness are impressive.


different-layersDifferent layers

After having taken another barrier of stones though an, almost overwhelming, touch of gratitude fills my heart. It is here as if I enter the eternal world where past, present and future are united.

eternal-worldEternal world

Slán go fóill,
Elisabeth from Inis Meáin


On a fair day you can spot her coming, even from far way out. She, banríon na farraige or queen of the sea. Well, a queen she definitely is but in her own right, I would say. The way for example she presents herself, every morning and every evening, is endearing; with a straightened back she faces in full trust those what wants to come towards her. Having her “wings” in a well behaved manor alongside herself, she is a penguin alike.

cleaving-the-wavesCleaving the waves

How moving it is to see her coming and how touching at the same instant it is also, to observe her enthusiasm; from far away you almost can feel the nearly indomitable and impetuous eager she has to moor the pier, she spurts along. Facing them she cleaves the big waves aside and on she strives. There is no stopping her. Like a knife she cuts her way directing her aim.

and-there-she-comesThere she is

“Yes, that’s what it is she said, I am bewildered. It is not that I am frightened or scared. No, I am just bewildered. It is not long after the ferry moored at the pier that she asked the boatman “ where am I”? “This is the middle one out of the three islands, which you have chosen as your destination for today”, he answered patiently. She looked around but nobody seemed to offer up to embark like she was intended to do. “What am I supposed to do”? She said desperately for on the quay she did not see a soul.

a-taste-of-inis-meainA taste of Inis Meáin

“What can I do here” she asked him again. Well, you can walk the island I suppose and you can climb the forts. But look, do you see that car over there? I am sure that is the place you are welcome to put your questions on. And be assured we will come back to pick you up again later this afternoon. And off the queen rounded the corner of the pier under way to her next destination.
There was a long list of questions she wanted to inquire about whether there is public transport on the island, pony and trap, shops and a variety of restaurants. The answer was ‘no’. Not as such. And who does live in all these houses. I do not see anybody at all. Where are they. And what about all the noises I am used to hear?

low-tideLow tide

A sip of fresh and strong Irish tea did good on her for then she wished to head down for the church. What a lovely and intimate church you have and so full of peace she confided me later on.

coming-homeComing home

Slán go fóill,
Elisabeth from Inis Meáin


Polar Circle

It is only with hesitation that I close the curtains to let her go.

a-glorious-day-it-wasA glorious day it was

so-it-wasSo it was

The day has been a glorious one. Like a souvenir the various shades in the still colouring sky are reflected on the surface of the sea. In a calm and serene mood, the night takes her turn gradually from the worn day. When sunset is almost at hand though, despite of an atmosphere of serenity, there is restrained tension as well. With the diminishing of light, the contours of what is still to be seen/observed become sharper and so is the intensity of the colours at sea.
Soon the sky is becoming equal in tone and I descry the first stars.
As busy as it was in the sky right then with the planets and stars in their various constellations shining brightly along the milky way as quiet it was the following morning down on the street.

start-of-closing-inStart of closing in

Not a soul nor a cat or dog and hardly any car I saw on my way down to Moinín na Ruaige, one of the hamlets on Inis Meáin.

enclosed-in-mistEnclosed in mist

Well, that I did not see anybody at all was not so strange for a dense mist had covered Inis Meáin for the bigger part.

for-how-longFor how long

As if the island was taken apart and closed in with a piece of string. Even the fields lying across the road were hardly to discard.

the-sun-in-her-risingThe sun in her rising

At noon there was a bit of a sunrise to be followed by a sunset shortly after.

between-sunrise-and-sunsetBetween sunrise and sunset

It felt as if we had been brought in secret within the polar circle. I do hope to be back again in the Atlantic Ocean when I awake tomorrow morning.

when-i-wake-upWhen I wake up

Slán go fóill,
Elisabeth from Inis Meáin

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